What Is Selvedge Denim?

Selvedge denim is one of the most talked-about fabrics in heritage menswear — and one of the most misunderstood. At Sir James Roermond, we stock some of the finest selvedge denim available in the Netherlands. Here’s everything you need to know about what selvedge denim is, why it matters and how to choose the right pair.

The Basics: How Selvedge Denim Is Made

Selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle looms — narrow looms that weave a continuous length of fabric with a clean, self-finished edge on both sides. This self-finished edge is the “selvedge” (from “self-edge”) and prevents the fabric from fraying or unravelling.

Modern denim is typically woven on projectile or rapier looms, which are much wider and faster but produce fabric with raw, unfinished edges that must be overlocked. The resulting fabric is less dense, less characterful and ages very differently from selvedge.

Why Selvedge Denim Is Different

Denser Weave

Shuttle looms weave more slowly and under greater tension, producing a tighter, denser fabric. This makes selvedge denim more durable and gives it a firmer hand feel that softens beautifully over time.

Better Fading

The dense weave and ring-spun yarn used in selvedge denim produce exceptional fading characteristics. High-contrast fades develop on stress points — the thighs, knees, back pocket edges — creating a unique patina that reflects exactly how you wear and move in your jeans.

The Selvedge ID

The coloured thread woven into the selvedge edge — often red, white, yellow or green — is a mark of authenticity and a point of pride. Wearing your jeans with a slight roll to show the selvedge ID is a classic heritage menswear detail.

Raw vs Washed Selvedge Denim

Selvedge denim is most commonly sold as “raw” or “unwashed” denim — meaning it has not been pre-washed or treated after weaving. Raw denim is stiff at first but moulds to your body over weeks of wear, producing personalised fades that washed denim simply cannot replicate.

Where Is Selvedge Denim Made?

The finest selvedge denim comes from Japan, where mills like Kaihara, Kurabo and Collect Mills have preserved traditional shuttle loom weaving since the 1960s. American mills like Cone Mills White Oak (now closed) also produced legendary selvedge fabric. European mills in Italy and Portugal produce excellent selvedge denim as well.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is selvedge denim worth it?

Yes — selvedge denim is more durable, ages more beautifully and develops a unique character that mass-produced denim cannot match. It is an investment in quality that pays off over years of wear.

Does raw denim shrink?

Yes — raw denim will shrink slightly after the first wash, typically 1–3% in length and width. Many people size up by one waist size to account for this, or soak the jeans before wearing to pre-shrink them.

How often should raw denim be washed?

Most raw denim enthusiasts wait 6–12 months before the first wash to develop strong fades. When you do wash, turn inside out, use cold water and hang to dry.

Where can I buy selvedge denim in the Netherlands?

Sir James Roermond stocks a curated selection of selvedge denim. Visit us at Neerstraat 66, Roermond or browse our selvedge denim collection. Can’t find your size? Contact us — we may have it in stock or can order it for you.

Shop Selvedge Denim at Sir James

Explore our selvedge denim collection and pair with Red Wing boots and leather accessories for the complete heritage look.